Tuesday, 8 July 2025

 


Al-Ula of Saudi Arabia


Al-Ula, located in northwest Saudi Arabia’s Medina Province, is an ancient oasis city with a history stretching back over 200,000 years. Nestled in the Hejaz region, it’s a crossroads of civilizations, once a vital stop on the Incense Trade Route connecting India, the Persian Gulf, the Levant, and Europe. Its fertile valley, dramatic sandstone cliffs, and cultural treasures make it a living museum, now transforming into a global tourism hub under Saudi Arabia’s Vision 2030. Here’s a detailed look at AlUla’s history, archaeology, modern developments, attractions, and more.


Historical and Cultural Significance


Al-Ula’s strategic location fostered human settlement since 5000 BCE, with continuous habitation through the Bronze Age and beyond. Known biblically as Dedan, it was a key trading hub for spices, silk, and frankincense. The region hosted several ancient kingdoms:


- Dedanite Kingdom (7th–6th century BCE): One of the earliest North Arabian civilizations, mentioned in the Harran Stela. Dedan was a commercial centre until Nabonidus, the last Neo-Babylonian king, conquered it around 552 BCE.


- Lihyanite Kingdom (5th–2nd century BCE): Succeeding the Dedanites, the Lihyanites left behind inscriptions and colossal statues, possibly of their kings, at sites like Dadan and Jabal Ikmah.


- Nabataean Kingdom (1st century BCE–106 CE): Famous for Petra in Jordan, the Nabataeans established Hegra (Mada’in Salih), 22 km north of AlUla, as their southern capital. Hegra’s 111 rock-cut tombs rival Petra’s grandeur.


- Roman and Islamic Periods: After the Roman Empire annexed the Nabataean Kingdom in 106 CE, AlUla saw Latin inscriptions and military forts. By 630 CE, it became part of Islamic history during Prophet Muhammad’s campaigns. The Old Town, built in the 13th century using Dedanite and Lihyanite stones, thrived as a pilgrimage stop until the 1980s.


Al-Ula’s layered history reflects influences from the Kingdom of Aksum, Egypt, Mesopotamia, and Greco-Roman cultures, evident in its artifacts and inscriptions tracing the Arabic language’s evolution.


Archaeological Treasures


AlUla is an archaeological goldmine, with sites recognized globally for their preservation and significance:


- Hegra (Mada’in Salih): Saudi Arabia’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site (2008), Hegra features 111 Nabataean tombs carved into rose-tinted sandstone, including Qasr al-Farid, an unfinished masterpiece. Jabal Al-Banat, with 29 tombs dedicated to women, highlights Nabataean gender dynamics. The site includes sanctuaries, wells, and inscriptions, offering insights into a thriving trade hub.


- Dadan and Jabal Ikmah: Dadan, capital of the Dadanite and Lihyanite kingdoms, boasts lion tombs and two colossal statues, possibly royal figures. Jabal Ikmah, dubbed an “open-air library,” holds hundreds of inscriptions from the 1st millennium BCE, documenting rituals, trade, and governance.


- AlUla Old Town: A maze of 800-year-old mudbrick houses, mosques, and markets, inhabited until the 1980s. Now preserved as an open-air museum, it offers a glimpse into medieval Arabian life with artisan shops and date groves.


- Jabal AlFil (Elephant Rock): A 52-meter natural rock formation shaped like an elephant, set against red sand dunes, symbolizing AlUla’s geological wonders.


- Other Sites: Al-Khuraybah, the Lihyanite capital, features thousands of carvings. The Oasis Trail, lined with 2.3 million date palms, showcases millennia-old farming practices. Lesser-known spots like Jabal Ithlib and Rainbow Rock add to the region’s diversity.


The Royal Commission for AlUla (RCU), established in 2017, oversees a major archaeological survey to protect these sites while uncovering new Neolithic and Bronze Age findings.


Modern Development and Tourism


Under Vision 2030, Al-Ula is being reimagined as a global cultural and tourism destination, balancing heritage preservation with economic growth. Key initiatives include:


- Infrastructure: Al-Ula International Airport, upgraded in 2021, now handles 400,000 passengers annually and international flights. The Hejaz Railway, once linking Damascus to Medina, is being restored for heritage tours. Ground transport includes car rentals and taxis from cities like Medina (350 km away).


- Hospitality and Real Estate: The AlUla Development Company, launched in 2023, drives projects like the Sharaan Nature Reserve and resort, designed to blend with the desert. Luxury accommodations include Banyan Tree AlUla, Our Habitas AlUla, and tented villas offering Bedouin-inspired experiences. High-end dining options like Saffron (Thai-inspired) and OKTO (Greek cuisine) cater to diverse tastes.


- Cultural Projects: A 2018 Saudi-France agreement supports a world-class art and culture museum, transport upgrades, and hotels, including one by architect Jean Nouvel carved into Sharaan’s cliffs. The Kingdoms’ Institute, set for an international design competition, will study Arabian Peninsula history. Wadi AlFann hosts contemporary art, with exhibitions like James Turrell’s light installations (Jan–Apr 2025).


- Events and Festivals: Al-Ula hosts the Skies Festival (Apr 2025), Camel Cup (early Apr), and Arabian Warrior obstacle race (May 2025). Art exhibitions, such as Maha Malluh’s “Reminiscence” (Jan–Apr 2025), and music festivals draw global crowds.


- Sustainability and Community: The RCU trains 200 local youths in hospitality, languages, and archaeology, ensuring locals benefit from tourism. The Arabian Leopard Fund promotes conservation of the critically endangered big cat, with 500,000 trees planted in Sharaan to support Saudi’s Green Initiative.


The RCU aims to attract 2 million tourists annually by 2030, contributing SAR 120 billion to GDP, with 38,000 new jobs created.


Natural Beauty and Adventure


Al-Ula’s landscapes—yellow sands, black volcanic plateaus, and red canyons—are as captivating as its history:


- Ashar Valley: Home to Hegra and Elephant Rock, it offers horse riding, hiking, and biking amid towering cliffs.


- Sharaan Nature Reserve: A biodiversity hotspot with plans for eco-lodges and leopard conservation programs.


- Harrat Viewpoint: Panoramic vistas of volcanic fields and sandstone formations.


- Adventure Activities: Ziplining, hot air balloon rides, and stargazing capitalize on AlUla’s clear skies and rugged terrain.


The Oasis, with millions of date palms, supports sustainable agriculture, where visitors can sample fresh dates and learn desert farming techniques.


Practical Information for Visitors


- Best Time to Visit: October to March, when temperatures range from 15–30°C, ideal for outdoor exploration. Summers (June–September) exceed 45°C, making travel challenging.


- Getting There: Prince Abdul Majeed bin Abdulaziz Airport (ULH) connects to Riyadh, Jeddah, and Dubai. Driving from Medina or Riyadh offers scenic desert routes.


- Visa Requirements: Most travelers need a tourist visa, easily obtained online. Check Saudi Arabia’s latest regulations for updates.


- Accommodation: Options range from budget campsites to 5-star resorts like Banyan Tree. Book early for peak season (Dec–Feb).


- Dining: Beyond luxury restaurants, try local spots like AlUla Oasis Restaurant for Saudi cuisine or Mamzel for Spanish vibes with live performances.


- Cultural Sensitivity: Al-Ula’s Islamic history, tied to the Thamud tribe and Prophet Saleh, carries spiritual weight. Some sites, like Mada’in Salih, were historically avoided due to religious cautions, so respectful behavior is advised.


Controversies and Considerations


Al-Ula’s rapid transformation has sparked debate. Saudi Arabia’s human rights record, including the 2018 killing of journalist Jamal Khashoggi, has raised concerns about projects like Desert X AlUla (2020), criticized in the West for cultural whitewashing. The relocation of Old Town residents in the 1980s to preserve the site also stirs local sentiment. Meanwhile, scholars debate visiting Mada’in Salih due to a hadith urging reflection at sites of divine punishment, though Saudi Arabia promotes it for tourism. Visitors should weigh these nuances while appreciating AlUla’s openness since 2019, when non-religious tourist visas were introduced.


The debate surrounding visiting Mada’in Salih (Hegra), a key archaeological site in Al-Ula, Saudi Arabia, stems from its religious significance in Islamic tradition, particularly its association with the Thamud people and a hadith (saying of Prophet Muhammad) that emphasizes reflection at sites of divine punishment.


This tension contrasts with Saudi Arabia’s promotion of Mada’in Salih as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and tourism centerpiece since opening to non-religious tourists in 2019. Below is a detailed exploration of this issue, covering the religious context, scholarly perspectives, modern tourism efforts, and considerations for visitors.


Religious Context: Mada’in Salih and the Thamud


Mada’in Salih, known historically as Hegra, was the southern capital of the Nabataean Kingdom (1st century BCE–106 CE), famous for its 111 rock-cut tombs carved into sandstone cliffs. In Islamic tradition, the site is linked to the Thamud, an ancient Arabian tribe mentioned in the Quran (e.g., Surah Al-A’raf 7:73–79, Surah Hud 11:61–68). The Thamud, led by Prophet Saleh, are described as a prosperous people who excelled in stone-carving but rejected God’s message, demanding a miraculous she-camel as proof of Saleh’s prophet hood. When they killed the camel and persisted in disbelief, God destroyed them with a cataclysmic event, sparing Saleh and the believers.


Mada’in Salih’s tombs and structures are believed by some to be remnants of the Thamud’s craftsmanship, tying the site to this narrative of divine punishment. This connection imbues the location with spiritual weight, making it more than an archaeological site for Muslims.


The Hadith and Scholarly Debate ( Details in subsequent paragraphs)


A specific hadith, recorded in Sahih al-Bukhari and Sahih Muslim, fuels the debate about visiting Mada’in Salih. It recounts Prophet Muhammad passing by Al-Hijr (another name for Mada’in Salih) during the Tabuk expedition (630 CE). The Prophet advised his companions:


- Not to enter the dwellings of those punished by God (the Thamud) unless weeping, out of fear of suffering a similar fate.


- To avoid using the area’s water or lingering unnecessarily, urging reflection on divine justice instead.


The hadith reads (in summary): “Do not enter the homes of those who wronged themselves except that you are weeping, lest what befell them befalls you.” The Prophet also reportedly hastened through the area, covering his face, signaling reverence and caution.


Scholarly Interpretations:


1. Cautious Approach: Some traditional scholars interpret the hadith literally, advising Muslims to avoid Mada’in Salih unless visiting with a sombre, reflective mindset—focusing on God’s power and the consequences of disobedience. They argue that casual tourism, especially for leisure or profit, risks disrespecting the site’s spiritual gravity. This view was historically dominant, contributing to Mada’in Salih’s relative isolation before Saudi Arabia’s tourism push.


2. Contextual Approach: Other scholars emphasize the hadith’s historical context, noting it addressed the Prophet’s companions during a military campaign, not modern tourists. They argue the instruction was specific to that moment, urging mindfulness rather than a blanket prohibition. These scholars see no issue with visiting Mada’in Salih for educational or cultural purposes, provided visitors maintain respect and avoid frivolous behavior.


3. Permissive View: A minority, often aligned with modern Saudi religious authorities, fully supports tourism to Mada’in Salih. They view it as a way to showcase Islamic history and the Quran’s relevance, especially since the site’s Nabataean phase (post-Thamud) aligns with global heritage. They argue that regulated visits, with guides explaining the Thamud’s story, fulfill the hadith’s call for reflection.


This diversity of opinions reflects broader tensions between preserving religious sensitivities and embracing cultural openness, a hallmark of Saudi Arabia’s Vision 2030 reforms.


The Hadith in details


The hadith concerning Mada’in Salih (Al-Hijr), linked to the Thamud people, is a significant text in Islamic tradition that shapes the scholarly debate about visiting this archaeological site in AlUla, Saudi Arabia. Recorded in the most authoritative hadith collections, Sahih al-Bukhari and Sahih Muslim, it recounts an incident during the Prophet Muhammad’s expedition to Tabuk in 630 CE, where he passed through Al-Hijr and issued specific guidance about interacting with the area. Below is a detailed examination of the hadith, including its text, context, authenticity, interpretations, implications for visiting Mada’in Salih, and its broader significance.


Text of the Hadith


The hadith appears in multiple narrations, with slight variations, but the core account is consistent. The most commonly cited version, from Sahih al-Bukhari (Book 59, Hadith 120, No. 3379) and Sahih Muslim (Book 55, Hadith 49, No. 6947), is narrated by Abdullah ibn Umar, a prominent companion of the Prophet. A composite translation, preserving key details, is as follows:


- When the Messenger of Allah (peace be upon him) passed by Al-Hijr during the Tabuk expedition, he said, ‘Do not enter the dwellings of those who wronged themselves [the Thamud] except that you are weeping, lest what befell them befalls you.’ He then covered his head, hastened his pace, and forbade [the companions] from drinking from their wells or using their water for dough. He said, ‘If you take water from it, give it to the camels, but do not drink it or use it for ablution.’ The Prophet urged them to move quickly through the area.


Another narration, in Sahih Muslim (Book 55, Hadith 50), adds:


- The Prophet said, ‘Do not ask for signs [miracles] as the people of Saleh did, for they were sent a she-camel, but they wronged themselves and were destroyed.’ He instructed them to reflect on the punishment that overtook the Thamud.


These narrations describe the Prophet’s cautious approach to Al-Hijr, emphasizing reverence for a place associated with divine punishment.


Context of the Hadith


The hadith is set during the Tabuk expedition in 630 CE (9 AH), when the Prophet led a large Muslim army north from Medina to confront a rumored Byzantine threat near the Roman frontier, close to modern-day Jordan. Al-Hijr, identified with Mada’in Salih, lies along this route, approximately 350 km north of Medina. Historically, it was the Nabataean city of Hegra, but in Islamic tradition, it is tied to the Thamud, an earlier Arabian tribe mentioned in the Quran as recipients of divine punishment for rejecting Prophet Saleh (Surah Al-A’raf 7:73–79, Surah Ash-Sharh 91:11–14).


Key contextual elements:


- Thamud’s Story: The Quran describes the Thamud as skilled stone-carvers who built dwellings in cliffs, likely linking them to Mada’in Salih’s rock-cut tombs. They demanded a miracle from Saleh, and God sent a she-camel, instructing them not to harm it. Defiant, they killed the camel, leading to their destruction by a “blast” or earthquake (Surah Hud 11:67).


- Tabuk’s Purpose: The expedition was a military and diplomatic manoeuvre, not a pilgrimage, so the Prophet’s stop at Al-Hijr was incidental. The area’s eerie ruins, possibly visible then, served as a tangible reminder of the Thamud’s fate.


- Audience: The Prophet addressed his companions, many new to Islam, to instil God-consciousness (taqwa) by highlighting the consequences of disobedience, using Al-Hijr as a visual lesson.


The Prophet’s actions—covering his face, hastening through, and avoiding the water—reflect humility and caution, signaling the site’s spiritual weight.


Authenticity


The hadith’s authenticity is unquestioned in Sunni Islam, as it appears in Sahih al-Bukhari and Sahih Muslim, deemed the most reliable hadith collections (sahih, meaning authentic). Narrated by Abdullah ibn Umar, a respected companion known for meticulous reporting, the hadith meets rigorous criteria for chain of transmission (isnad) and content (matn). Its consistency across narrations reinforces its credibility. Shia scholars, while prioritizing different hadith collections, generally accept the narrative’s historical basis, though they may interpret it differently.


Interpretations of the Hadith


The hadith’s guidance has sparked varied interpretations among scholars, particularly regarding visiting Mada’in Salih today. These can be grouped into three main perspectives:


1. Literal/Cautious Interpretation:


- View: The hadith discourages visiting Al-Hijr unless with a reflective, repentant mindset (weeping, fearing God’s punishment). Casual or leisurely visits risk divine displeasure, as the Prophet’s haste and water prohibition suggest avoidance.


- Reasoning: The phrase “lest what befell them befalls you” implies a spiritual danger in treating the site lightly. The Thamud’s sin—arrogance and rejecting miracles—requires visitors to approach with humility.


- Implications: Some traditional scholars, especially pre-modern ones, advised Muslims to bypass Mada’in Salih unless necessary, limiting visits to those seeking spiritual lessons. This view influenced Saudi Arabia’s historical restrictions on the site before 2019.


- Supporters: Historically, scholars like Ibn Hajar al-Asqalani (d. 1449) emphasized the hadith’s warning tone, urging caution.


2. Contextual Interpretation:


- View: The hadith’s instructions were specific to the Tabuk expedition’s context, addressing companions in a moment of military and spiritual discipline, not a universal ban on visiting. The emphasis on weeping reflects a call for mindfulness, not prohibition.


- Reasoning: The Prophet’s guidance aimed to teach his companions about divine justice, using Al-Hijr’s ruins as a sermon backdrop. Modern visits for education, archaeology, or tourism, if respectful, align with this reflective intent. The water prohibition may relate to ritual purity concerns specific to that time, not a perpetual rule.


- Implications: Visiting Mada’in Salih is permissible, even encouraged, if done with awareness of its Quranic significance. Structured tours explaining the Thamud’s story fulfill the hadith’s reflective purpose.


- Supporters: Contemporary scholars like Saudi Arabia’s Grand Mufti Abdulaziz Al ash-Sheikh (b. 1943) support this view, aligning with Vision 2030’s tourism goals.


3. Permissive Interpretation:


- View: The hadith poses no barrier to visiting Mada’in Salih, especially since its Nabataean history (post-Thamud) dominates its modern identity as a UNESCO site. Tourism promotes cultural pride and economic growth, outweighing restrictive readings.


- Reasoning: The hadith’s focus was spiritual discipline, not a legal ruling (fatwa) against travel. Mada’in Salih’s global heritage value, tied to Nabataean trade rather than just Thamudic punishment, justifies open access. The Quran encourages reflecting on past nations’ ruins (Surah Al-An’am 6:11), supporting educational visits.


- Implications: Mada’in Salih should be fully integrated into tourism, with guides ensuring respect for its Islamic context. This view aligns with Saudi Arabia’s post-2019 visa reforms.


- Supporters: Modern Saudi religious bodies, like the Ministry of Hajj, and some reformist scholars endorse this stance, emphasizing national development.


Implications for Visiting Mada’in Salih


The hadith’s interpretations directly impact how Muslims and non-Muslims approach Mada’in Salih:


- For Muslims: The cautious view may lead some to avoid the site or visit only with spiritual intent, perhaps praying or reflecting on the Quran’s Thamud narrative. Contextual and permissive views encourage visits, especially through Royal Commission for AlUla (RCU) tours that highlight both Nabataean history and Islamic lessons. Most Saudi Muslims today, influenced by state-backed scholars, see no issue with respectful tourism.


- For Non-Muslims: The hadith holds no religious obligation, but understanding its significance fosters cultural sensitivity. RCU guides often explain the Thamud’s story, helping visitors appreciate the site’s dual identity—archaeological marvel and Islamic cautionary tale.


- Tourism Framework (2025): The RCU mandates guided tours (SAR 95, ~$25) to Mada’in Salih, ensuring visitors learn its history, including Quranic references. This structure addresses the hadith’s call for reflection, as guides discuss the Thamud alongside Nabataean architecture like Qasr al-Farid. Restrictions on wandering alone or defacing the site align with preserving its sanctity.


Broader Significance


The hadith transcends Mada’in Salih, offering timeless lessons:


- Theological Lesson: It underscores God’s justice and mercy, using the Thamud’s fate to warn against arrogance and disbelief. The Prophet’s humility—covering his face—models taqwa (God-consciousness).


- Historical Insight: It confirms Al-Hijr’s antiquity, linking Quranic narratives to physical sites, which archaeology later corroborated through Nabataean inscriptions and tombs.


- Cultural Dialogue: The debate reflects Islam’s adaptability, balancing tradition with modernity. Saudi Arabia’s promotion of Mada’in Salih since 2019, via non-religious visas, shows how religious texts are reinterpreted to support national goals like Vision 2030.


- Ethical Reflection: For visitors, the hadith invites contemplation of human hubris and impermanence, whether religious or secular, as they walk among 2,000-year-old ruins.


Scholarly and Social Dynamics


The hadith’s varied readings mirror broader trends:


- Pre-2019 Saudi Arabia: Conservative Wahhabi influence leaned toward the cautious view, limiting Mada’in Salih’s access to archaeologists or permit-holders. Local folklore often warned against lingering there, echoing the hadith’s tone.


- Post-2019 Shift: Vision 2030 and Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman’s reforms empowered contextual/permissive interpretations, backed by state scholars. The RCU’s educational focus—training 200 local guides by 2024—ensures the hadith’s reflective spirit informs tourism.


- Global Context: Some Western scholars and activists question Saudi tourism’s motives, citing human rights concerns but the hadith itself remains a Muslim-specific debate, rarely affecting non-Muslim visitors.


Practical Guidance for Visitors (April 2025)


To honour the hadith’s intent while visiting Mada’in Salih:


- Learn the Story: Read Surah Al-A’raf (7:73–79) or tour materials beforehand to grasp the Thamud’s significance. RCU’s visitor centre offers exhibits on this.


- Choose Guided Tours: Book via experiencealula.com for 2–4-hour tours (daily, 8 AM–5 PM). Guides blend Islamic history with archaeology, fulfilling the hadith’s reflective call.


- Be Respectful: Avoid loud behavior or littering. Dress modestly (covering shoulders/knees), as AlUla is conservative despite tourism.


- Reflect: Muslim visitors may pause to pray or contemplate divine power, as the hadith suggests. Non-Muslims can appreciate the site’s eerie beauty as a meditation on history’s fragility.


- Conservation: Stick to paths to protect sandstone tombs, aligning with the hadith’s caution against exploiting the site.


The hadith about Al-Hijr is a concise yet profound text, blending spiritual warning with historical memory. Its call to approach Mada’in Salih with weeping—or at least reverence—stems from the Thamud’s Quranic fate, urging humility before God’s judgment. While traditionally a caution, modern interpretations, backed by Saudi Arabia’s tourism push since 2019, see it as an invitation to learn and reflect, not avoid. The hadith’s flexibility mirrors Al-Ula’s own evolution—a place where ancient ruins meet global ambitions.


For visitors, it’s a reminder to tread lightly, whether marveling at Nabataean tombs or pondering divine lessons. Mada’in Salih’s sands hold both history and mystery—engage with both, and the hadith’s wisdom will resonate long after you leave.


Saudi Arabia’s Tourism Push Since 2019


Saudi Arabia’s decision to promote Mada’in Salih as a tourism destination marks a significant shift, enabled by the introduction of non-religious tourist visas in September 2019. Before this, access was restricted, requiring special permits, and the site was primarily visited by archaeologists or pilgrims aware of its religious context. Key developments include:


- UNESCO Recognition (2008): Mada’in Salih’s designation as Saudi Arabia’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site highlighted its global value, encouraging preservation and international interest. Its Nabataean tombs, like those of Petra, position it as a cultural treasure beyond its Thamudic associations.


- Vision 2030 and the Royal Commission for Al-Ula (RCU): Launched in 2017, the RCU oversees Al-Ula’s transformation into a tourism hub. Mada’in Salih is a flagship attraction, marketed for its archaeological splendor and historical depth. The RCU frames visits as educational, with guided tours explaining the Thamud’s Quranic story alongside Nabataean history, aligning with the hadith’s reflective intent.


- Infrastructure and Accessibility: Since 2019, Al-Ula’s tourism infrastructure has expanded, with AlUla International Airport connecting to global cities and on-site facilities like visitor centers. Tours to Mada’in Salih include shuttle services, expert guides, and exhibits, ensuring structured visits that respect the site’s significance.


- Cultural Reframing: Saudi authorities emphasize Mada’in Salih’s Nabataean heritage (post-Thamud) to broaden its appeal, distancing it from solely religious controversy. Events like the AlUla Arts Festival and Desert X exhibitions integrate the site into a global cultural narrative, attracting diverse visitors.


This push has drawn millions, with visitor numbers to AlUla rising from 400,000 in 2019 to over 1.3 million by 2024, per RCU reports. Mada’in Salih’s accessibility reflects Saudi Arabia’s broader goal of diversifying its economy, reducing oil dependence, and fostering global engagement.


Controversies and Criticisms


The promotion of Mada’in Salih has sparked debate, both domestically and internationally:


- Religious Sensitivities: Conservative clerics and communities question tourism’s compatibility with the hadith, fearing commercialization trivializes a site of divine judgment. Some locals, particularly older generations, recall oral traditions cautioning against lingering at Mada’in Salih, reinforcing unease.


- Cultural Whitewashing Concerns: Globally, initiatives like Desert X AlUla (2020), a contemporary art exhibition near Mada’in Salih, faced criticism for allegedly glossing over Saudi Arabia’s human rights issues, including the 2018 Jamal Khashoggi killing. Critics argue tourism sanitizes complex narratives, though supporters see it as cultural diplomacy.


- Balancing Heritage and Profit: Scholars worry that mass tourism risks damaging Mada’in Salih’s fragile sandstone structures, despite RCU’s conservation efforts. The site’s dual identity—archaeological gem and religious cautionary tale—complicates its branding.


Considerations for Visitors


Visitors to Mada’in Salih should navigate its nuances thoughtfully:


- Respect the Religious Context: Understand the Thamud’s story and the hadith’s guidance. Approach the site with curiosity and humility, avoiding behavior that could be seen as irreverent (e.g., loud music or littering). Guided tours, mandatory for entry, provide Quranic context, enriching the experience.


- Engage with Dual Narratives: Appreciate Mada’in Salih’s layers—Nabataean architectural brilliance and Islamic moral lessons. Sites like Qasr al-Farid (the iconic standalone tomb) or Jabal Al-Banat (women’s tombs) offer historical insights, while the desert setting invites reflection.


- Support Conservation: Follow RCU guidelines, such as staying on designated paths to protect the site. Entry fees (around SAR 95, or $25, for adults) fund preservation and local training programs.


- Cultural Sensitivity: Dress modestly (covering shoulders and knees), as AlUla remains a conservative region despite its tourism boom. Engage respectfully with guides, many of whom are local Saudis sharing their heritage.


- Weigh Ethical Questions: Reflect on the broader implications of Saudi tourism, including human rights debates. Visiting since 2019’s visa reforms signals support for openness, but staying informed ensures a balanced perspective.


Practical Details


- Access: Mada’in Salih is 22 km north of Al-Ula city, reachable via RCU shuttles or private tours. Book tickets online through experiencealula.com; winter (Oct–Mar) is ideal for cooler weather (15–30°C).


- Tours: Options range from 2-hour highlights (SAR 95) to photography-focused sunrise visits (SAR 350). Guides blend archaeology with Thamudic history, addressing religious significance.


- Nearby Sites: Combine with AlUla Old Town or Jabal Ikmah for a full day. The Oasis Trail offers a serene contrast.

- Current Status (Apr 2025): No reported restrictions on Mada’in Salih visits, with Saudi authorities encouraging tourism. Check travel advisories for updates.


Why It Matters


Mada’in Salih embodies AlUla’s complexity—a place where ancient trade routes, Nabataean ambition, and Islamic theology converge. The debate over visiting reflects broader questions about reconciling faith, heritage, and modernity. Saudi Arabia’s promotion since 2019, via non-religious visas and Vision 2030, invites global travellers to engage with this dialogue, making Mada’in Salih not just a destination but a lens into cultural evolution.


For visitors, it’s a chance to walk among 2,000-year-old tombs while pondering timeless lessons. Go with an open mind, respect the hadith’s call for reflection, and you’ll find Mada’in Salih’s beauty—both physical and spiritual—unforgettable.


Why Al-Ula Stands Out


Al-Ula blends raw history with modern ambition. Its Nabataean tombs rival Petra’s, yet it remains less crowded. The interplay of desert stillness, ancient scripts, and contemporary art creates a unique vibe—part archaeological dig, part luxury escape. Unlike Dubai’s urban glitz, Al-Ula’s charm lies in its understated grandeur, where sandstone tells stories of empires, and date palms whisper resilience.


If you’re planning a trip, prioritize Hegra and Jabal Ikmah for history, Elephant Rock for photos, and a desert camp for stargazing. Al-Ula’s evolution is fast—visit soon to catch its magic before it becomes the next Petra.




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